Sunday, December 15, 2013

Noël in Seattle's "Little Paris"







Today, I visited a favorite Seattle neighborhood, Madison Valley. The French flavor is so strong there, that locals - and the media - have nicknamed it: "Seattle's Little Paris." 

You may remember the story I wrote about it. I introduced you to some of my favorite places. Some are now gone. Madison Valley, like most places, keeps evolving.

My friend Kelly and I made fun plans this weekend, but she woke up with a bad cold, and we had to cancel our little outing. 

I needed a back-up plan. Should I stay at home and spend more time reviewing for next week's exams? Should I go out in the damp and grey weather for a long walk with the Yellow Dog? Should I go up in the attic and finally drag down the big storage boxes to decorate the house for the Holidays? 

Non. Fugget-about-it. "I deserve a fun break," I thought, "not to mention I need new material for this week's blog post."

Off I went. Across the bridge. Away from suburbia. Back to the city. Ahhhh... Holiday lights. Boutiques. Coffee shops. Actual sidewalks, with actual people strolling... In short: Civilization! 

Of all the French restaurants I love in Seattle (and I am lucky to report the city has a few good ones,) Luc, owned by Chef Thierry Rautureau, holds a special place in my heart. This is the restaurant where I once met for dinner with my French students, and that fun evening inspired the very first story I wrote on this blog, three years ago. 


The French Studio group, circa December 2010
A great bunch!

Luc is a popular bistro, but I hoped I could find a table between brunch and dinner service. When I pushed the door after 3:00pm, the place was almost empty. An uncommon sight. 




I even got to choose my table, and sat by the window, so I could watch people in the street. Just like in France!


All good meals start with a pretty, sparkling drink!

The brunch menu was original, and impressive. There were traditional egg-based dishes, with a twist. There were heartier plats (entrees) one would expect to find on a dinner menu; Boeuf Bourguignon; trout amandine; and traditional bistro fare, like les moules-frites; and grilled beef onglet steak.

Yet, for a French Girl of Pied-Noir ancestry, the homemade merguez sausage proved too hard to resist. It was served with a fried egg, potato-spinach gratin, roasted squash, and some greens. Délicieux ! (The merguez had just enough of a kick to make it stand out.) 

Portions were copious, but the young waiter was so friendly I could not resist ordering a chocolate pot de crème for dessert. It was a feast, and in the middle of the day. 

Pourquoi pas ? On ne vit qu'une fois. You only live once. 



Notice the whipped cream and chocolate sablé cookie...
A decadent dessert, but served French style (i.e. a small portion) 

I enjoyed my meal, under young Chef Rautureau's watchful eyes (the painting was on the wall above my table.)




Thierry Rautureau is known as "the Chef in the Hat," and if you look closely, you can spot said-hat not only on the Chef's head these days, but also on the restaurant sign, and in the painting... That hat (and its owner) have been well-known on the Seattle food scene for many years.




The best part of the afternoon came after the meal. I strolled in the small neighborhood and stopped at a few favorite boutiques to get in the Holiday mood... 

Lavender Heart is a must-see. They specialize in fragrant gifts, like soaps and candles, but you never know what you will discover there. It is the perfect place to find a hostess gift. Best part of the visit: a chat with the friendly owner (Yesterday, we discussed our favorite dishes chez Luc, located on the same street block.) 





A festive atmosphere
Ha!

Two of these Elves' and Pixies' soap bars,
made in Belgium, came home with me!

Another mandatory stop in Madison Valley is my friend Nohra's Inès Pâtisserie. I introduced her and her spectacular confections here





I had not seen Nohra in a long time.  She remains as enthusiastic, direct and independent-minded as always. J'aime bien Nohra. I like her. She tells it like it is. Some customers might be surprised, but her business is thriving. She will be opening a new branch of Inès Pâtisserie in popular Capitol Hill next year. 

When I arrived, Nohra was on her way out, and the display windows almost empty, but there is always time to catch up with "a sister." She sent me home with a delicious almond croissant for Sunday's breakfast, and a scrumptious-looking tarte aux pommes (apple tart) because, she declared: "You've had a rough year, and it is time to have fun again!"



Petit-déjeuner à la française. Merci, Nohra!

There was time for one last stop, and I had to choose carefully. I have not had a chance to really get in the Holiday spirit this year. The fall has been too busy. 

"I want to smell real Christmas trees," I decided. And I knew just the place.





It smelled so good at City People's I almost expected Frosty the snowman to show up and grab Nohra's pastries out of my hand! Cars were lined up on the small parking lot waiting for the staff to wrap up their Christmas trees and load them up. A seasonal scene if there ever was one. 

It's not a great shot of the store sign, but I want you to know I almost got run over by a S.U.V. to take it. Had this happened in Paris, I would have certainly died, but the Seattle driver did not even honk at me.

This "paparazette" is dedicated, you see!

As anticipated, "cute" and "Christmassy" awaited inside City People's garden store. Illustration.


Who does not like owls...
... or little mice...
... or a handmade miniature fox with a backpack?
... or a wise (and elegant) angel?

As I said, cute and Christmassy.

The following journal was neither, but I was très, très tempted, especially when I noticed each page featured Ryan Gosling's face and an enticing message: "Hey girl, tell me all about your day...





But I do not need a Prince Charming for now. I think I am going to have fun being on my own for a while (sorry, Ryan.) 

So off I went, back to suburbia, my favorite car smelling like my old Parisian neighborhood, thanks to Nohra's fragrant pastries. 

There would be time later for a long, long, long walk with the Yellow Dog (because all indulgences come with a price...) There would be time for home decorating, and for more studying.

For now, as I drove across the bridge, I was happy to hum along with Frank Sinatra (courtesy of Junior, a big fan of the Rat Pack...) 





I'll be home for Christmas

I am dreaming tonight of a place I love
Even more than I usually do
And although I know it's a long road back
I promise you

I'll be home for Christmas
You can count on me
Please have snow and mistletoe
And presents on the tree

Christmas Eve will find me
Where the love light gleams
I'll be home for Christmas
If only in my dreams

Christmas Eve will find me
Where the love light gleams
I'll be home for Christmas
If only in my dreams

If only in my dreams



A bientôt.


All photos by French Girl in Seattle
Do not use, reprint or Pin without permission.
-- French Girl in Seattle

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34 comments:

  1. You know, this is my kind of Sunday! A French restaurant, a coffee shop and boutiques, all in one day - perfect! The last time I had moules-frites was during a weekend in Le Touquet and trout amandine is another favourite of mine. My mouth is watering! Your blog began at Luc's, no wonder it's a special place for you. My love of French pastries is of course well documented on my blog and I would be happy to wander around Lavender Heart Botanicals too and no doubt I would buy candles ( I bought two more during my London trip last week!) As for your exams next week, Bonne Chance, Véronique!

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    1. You're right, miss b. It was a lovely afternoon in Seattle… The only thing missing (that you enjoy on your many excursions to Dubai) is the sun, but hey, one can't be too picky in Northern Latitudes in December. Happy Holidays to you!

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  2. J'ai écouté Sinatra tout l'apres-midi en decorant mon sapin (une tradition chez moi, l'un ne va pas sans l'autre..)Les boutiques américaines font toujours rêver par leur contenu, car même si pour toi elles sont "a la française", vues d'ici on y trouve des choses qu'il n'y a pas en France. Ceci dit, je n'aime pas Ryan Gossling ;o)
    Quoi qu'il en soit, un dimanche bien sympa , et comme dit l'autre , "de temps en temps , y a pas de mal à s'faire du bien!", tu as eu raison d'en profiter !
    Surveille ta boîte aux lettres, petit truc en route pour toi.
    Gros bisous et à bientôt!

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    1. Tu vois que les grands esprits se rencontrent, Marie.

      Chaque fois que je mets les pieds dans les boutiques comme Lavender Heart, je pense à toi :-) Les Américains sont des collectionneurs, alors tu imagines comme ce type de boutique est populaire ici.
      Celle-ci, en tous cas, offre des choses de qualité, et uniques. La propriétaire est, en plus, très sympa, ce qui ne gâche rien.

      Merci d'avoir pensé à moi pour les Fêtes. Après notre mésaventure avec la poste Niçoise l'an dernier, je n'ai pas osé renouveler l'expérience, je l'avoue. Mais je t'ai envoyé la carte de voeux traditionnelle, dont je suis assez fière cette année (compte tenu de mes compétences informatiques limitées…) :-)

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  3. What a yummy, fun post Veronique! :) I need to make another trip north to Seattle and spend some time in this neighborhood. Sounds fabulous. I'm sorry you had a rough year. Maybe 2014 will be your best year yet? I wish that for you.

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    1. Bonjour Mary. Thank you for stopping by and for your kind words and encouragement. It has been a difficult year, and the next few months will still be hectic, but looking at the light at the end of the tunnel, and focusing on my dreams again. That feels wonderful! Happy Holidays to you!

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  4. Oh, you had me at merguez sausages! I still miss the French brasserie that used to operate in our neighborhood and specialized in charcuterie and sausages. Now I REALLY want to visit Seattle!

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    1. Well, I suppose i could always *ship* some of Luc's marvelous merguez sausage to you. It would be cheaper than flying to Seattle! You might even get it in time for the Holidays. Joyeux Noël, pretty lady!

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  5. Dearest Véronique,
    You got a great and much needed 'French' infusion it looks like! Such pâtisserie is a dream and oh, the smell of fresh baked yummy treats that you have inside your care and home...
    Makes for happy Christmas dreams!
    Hugs,
    Mariette

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    1. Absolutely Mariette. You know i love my "French fix" every few days… Not always an easy find in the Pacific Northwest, but I am resourceful :-) I hope all is well with you in Georgia and your business is BOOMING during the HOliday season. Big hugs to you. Joyeux Noël!

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  6. Hello Véronique, So glad you had a fine French time in my neck of the woods this weekend! My latest discovery? Le Burger at Voila. Oh my. You must come back and try it soon. Here's to putting 2013 behind us and for the new wonderful things that may be waiting around the corner in 2014. XOXO

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    1. Bonjour Jeanne. I always forget you live in that wonderful neighborhood. With a little bit of planning, you could have joined me to share a glass of that delicious sparkling beverage :-) My students and I used to go to Voilà for our traditional Holiday dinner. That was before Luc opened. I always had great meals there. Maybe I should return… Happy Holidays, Jeanne!

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  7. Hello to my Eastside "neighbor" -- Just had to tell you that you captured one of my favorite places in Seattle just perfectly. I need to get over there before the 25th, that is quite evident! I've often met friends at the Creperie (hopefully still there) just west of the nursery. . .and ahhh-hemm, deep throat clearning, we will have to resolve to get together at least in 2014 if not before!

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    1. Bonjour Jackie. We will definitely meet soon. I am around during the Holidays this year. I will send you an email at the end of the week when I complete my exams. Feel free to send one too if you have not heard from me by Monday. A bientôt, and thank you for staying in touch.

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  8. Beautiful post. I loved the pictures and I'm with you...I still to this day have to sit by a window when possible. I'm a people watcher. Pied-Noir huh? I would love to read a post about that. Or if you make it out to Santa Fe, I would like to hear more about that. I always hear "Pied-Noir' on my travels to France but I really don't understand it fully. Happy Holidays my friend.xox

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    1. I would love to tell you more about "les Pieds-Noirs"!

      I received a very special Christmas card today. I was so happy when I saw the enveloppe. It's not every day Sandra Bullock writes you a handwritten letter :-) As for the card, well, I must say it it quite simply the best one I have received! Merci, Sandy.

      :-)

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  9. C'est bête, mais cela me fait plaisir de voir que tous les américains ne méprisent pas l'art de vivre et les traditions des "fromages qui puent".

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    1. Vous plaisantez, Alain? Au contraire. Je ne compte pas les maisons autour de chez moi dont la déco intèrieure inclut des touches (très étudiées) "à la française." Il y a aussi le succès de tous ces livres qui pronent les vertus des femmes françaises, et leur sens inné du style, etc. Les Américaines en raffolent. Non, la France, on aime bien la critiquer dans les salons, surtout chez les conservateurs, mais en même temps, on aime bien y passer des vacances :-)

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  10. V- I have read this post like half a dozen times, but have had little time to comment, as I have become OBSESSED-- I SAY OBSESSED-- with Jacques Dutronc -watching every single you tube video, looking online for his bio- then and now- ANYTHING I COULD GET MY HANDS ON. I love his style and the hip 6o's beat and well him.....I most POSSESS a cd of his soon or I will burst....this started with his song Pere Noel....anyway GREAT post as usual....I must say I think you show amazing restraint in those stores as well as Ines'....I ADMIRE that about you as well as many other things....I love the Eiffel Tower ornaments! I am with you-I decorate each day a little maybe by Christmas eve I shall be ready, if not o well-I am a big fan of Sinatra and the entire Rat Pack sometimes I think I was born in the wrong era-well I must check and cross reference that indeed I have exhausted EVERY resource pertaining to my new obsession-I THINK I LOVE HIM-well the vintage version..... Until next time I am thinking of you and sending love and friendship as YOU DID INDEED HAVE A HARD YEAR-but like scarlett o'hara said "....after all tomorrow is another day." Stay well and strong and happy and most of all at peace .... easier said than done I know -please remember you have someone cheering for you on the other coast ! pax et bene v this day and every day that follows!

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  11. Ha. Ha. You're funny, g. You gave me a good laugh this afternoon. You and Jacques Dutronc. :-) I hate to tell you, but his son, Thomas, is as handsome and talented as his father. A wonderful guitar player. Now you have to look for more videos and resources on line! Bonne chance.

    Well, the house finally got decorated last weekend (an opportunity to clear the attic some more,) and it looks half-way decent. Everything gets done, in the end, no need to worry.

    I am happy to report I passed the first of the tree tests I am taking this week for the Educator's WEST-B exam, this morning :-)

    A bientôt, g.

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    1. BRAVO- WELL DONE AND WELL DONE!!You are A-M-A-Z-I-N-G- as well as inspirational-YEAH!!!! Keep me posted on the progress-I am so happy for you!!! oh and Thomas is his name you say.....

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    2. Merci, g. :-)
      I posted a special gift for you on the blog's Facebook page tonight. You may have to visit your sister tomorrow and check it out :-)
      Enjoy!

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  12. Have been thinking about you a great deal these last few weeks. I believe I owe you an e-mail. En tout cas, I have been remiss in not reading your wonderful posts. Where does the time go during the Christmas season? I loved this post!! My mouth is still watering. BTW, ma chère, Christmas would not be Christmas without Frank and Bing and Dean. Thank you for reminding me.

    Chat soon, M-T

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    1. Merci M-T. Tout va bien. L'année de tous les dangers se termine enfin, et sur des notes positives, ce qui est bien, puisque c'est Noël. Je t'envoie un email avant la fin de la semaine. Bisous à Monsieur Dan (et aux chats!)

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  13. Veronica! Love it that you love my 'hood! It is so fun to see it from your perspective. I saw I dream of Jeanens comment on Le Burger at Voila, and I think we should all gather there in the New Year. Resolute? The Ryan Gosling journal is that perfect little "extra something" I've been searching for for some of my gifts, mercy.

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    1. Splendid idea, Splendid Market! I will be in touch after the Holidays. Enjoy the break!

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  14. So glad you decided to go have a little fun! This looks like such a sweet little area, the food looks incredible. As does Ryan Gosling ;)


    the worldling blog

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    1. Thank you for stopping by, Sara. Happy Holidays to you!

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  15. Just popped back to wish you a Merry Christmas! I hope that 2014 is a much better year for you. Wishing you
    much happiness, Véronique!
    Joyeux Noël et Bonne Année! A bientôt......

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    1. Merci miss b. Wonderful to hear from you. I wish you a happy holiday season too, and look forward to reading more of your travel stories in 2014!

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  16. You seemed a bit melancholy at the beginning. How wonderful that you got out and cheered yourself up with favorite places, delicious treats and comforting smells.....There are blessings all around us...but sometimes we must make the first move. May your holiday continue to be filled with good cheer! Janey

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    1. Absolutely Janey. I am glad I crossed that darn bridge; then again a few days later for a fun-filled weekend in Seattle. So far, so good. I am enjoying the Holidays in Seattle AND the sun is even shining for us this year. Take care.

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  17. Oh yes, I'm a people watcher too. Wishing you all the best in 2014!

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  18. Beautiful post! My husband and I just moved from Seattle and this made me nostalgic for brunch at Cafe Flora and wandering through City People. Thanks for the lovely photos.

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Bonjour! I love hearing from you, my readers. To quote a fellow blogger, my friend Owen, "Comments are the icing on blogcake... Comments are the UFO in the twilight sky bearing news from other planets... Comments are raspberry vinegar in salad dressing... Comments are the cool balm of after-sun moisturizing lotion... Comments are the moment the band comes back out onstage to play an encore... Comments are the gleam in the eye across the room in a smoky bar... Comments are the rainbow after the rainstorm..." Merci for your comments! French Girl in Seattle